Today's image is a little down stream from the site of the previous post. It was taken on the way to the falls, not after the fall down the falls. (See previous post.) You can see that there is a definite uphill component to the stream. As with all flowing water, there are drops and there are quiet spots. You can see one of the "quiet spots" toward the top of the image. Had I scrambled about fifteen yards upstream this would have been a shot of the pool, filled with reflections. The power of the water would have been lost in the apparent stillness. All the way up to the falls I took five shot sequences with one stop bracketing. Between last week's image and today's image neither area a result of HDR. To find out what I did to both images, hit the "Read More".
The "specs" on the shot are ISO 200, F 22 @ 1/2 second. The "companion" shots for HDR ranged from 1/4 second to 4 seconds. As you can see, the image is based on the one stop above the darkest image of the set. The big reason for that is that it was dark in there. The camera's meter bases what it thinks is a "proper" exposure by trying create a neutral gray average to the shot. When it reads a scene that it calculates to really dark, the camera adjusts upward. Therefore, the darkest shot (the 1/4 second shot) is still fairly bright compared to what the eye would see. Using one of the images from the longer exposures would have left blown out highlights.
As is noticeable, there are some bright areas and some darker areas in today's images. For me, this is a pretty straight image. It never made the trip from Adobe Photoshop Lightroom (LR) to Adobe Photoshop (PS). Now, that is unusual for an image from me. I'm typically adding, subtracting, multiplying or dividing something in an image that can't be done in LR. Not today! 100% LR. The boulders on each side of the stream were brightened. The green moss deepened, The color of the rocks warmed up using the Color space in the Adjustment Brush. I've found an amazing amount of control can be developed using that Color box. Once you get a shade of color that's semi close to what you're looking for you have all the "tools" (sliders) of the Adjustment Brush available to you. Not exactly the color you were thinking of? Use the Temperature and Tint sliders. Not a deep enough shade? Use Exposure, Highlights, Shadows, or Clarity to zero in on what you feel is ideal.
The water also took a hit using the Color block of the Adjustment Brush. The water was a nondescript sort of gray. No life to it at all. Giving it a little blue cooled the water off and made it look a slight bit more translucent. (Even though it isn't.) The quiet pool was hit with another Adjustment Brush pin and made a little greener to accent the reflection of the trees.
All told, about fifteen to twenty individual Adjustment Brush pins were dropped in various parts of the image. Getting a good digital negative, in camera, should be the goal of every photographer. Developing that digital negative into a useable image is what one section of post processing is all about. If Ansel Adams or Alfred Stieglitz, or Matthew Brady had had access to LR they would have embraced it in order to "develop" their images.
Wheels Up for Seattle!
1 day ago